Cleaning Instructions
All of our hammocks and hammock chairs are designed to be used indoors and outdoors thanks to their durable, weather resistant, polyester cord construction. However, over time your hammock may accumulate dirt, dust and grime, especially if kept outdoors for extended periods of time. We recommend storing your hammock indoors when not in use to reduce the need for cleaning.
To clean your hammock we recommend:
- Shake off any debris.
- Fill a tub with warm water and either some mild dish soap, mild laundry detergent, or Woolite.
- Soak the rope portion of your hammock.
- Optionally, you can scrub any dirt or stains using a soft brush.
- Remove the hammock from the tub and rinse with fresh water.
DO NOT use bleach to clean our products. Bleach can deteriorate the ropes and cause discoloration.
Care Information for our Wood Arc Hammock Stands, Wood Arc Swing Stands, and Recliner Stands
Our stands come with a thin coat of oil from the factory, meant to protect them on the way to you. To keep your stand in the best condition, apply an outdoor-grade penetrating wood oil every six months to one year — more often if the stand is frequently wet.
What to look for: Any exterior product labeled a penetrating oil, wood oil, timber oil, or transparent oil finish will work. These soak into the wood fibers so water beads off the surface while moisture already in the wood can still escape. Most major stain brands carry one, usually shelved near the deck stains. Boiled linseed oil and tung oil also work well and are widely available.
What to avoid: Products labeled sealer, waterproofing sealer, varnish, or polyurethane. These form a film on the surface. Moisture inevitably gets into the wood through joints, end grain, and hardware holes, and a film won't let it back out — over time that causes rot underneath and peeling on top.
On color: Clear and "natural" finishes change the wood's appearance the least. Tinted options will darken it, but the pigment also blocks UV, so tinted finishes usually hold up longer before the wood grays. Either is fine — it's a matter of preference. Whichever you choose, test it on an inconspicuous part of the stand first.
One more tip: Most penetrating oils are meant to be applied as a single coat — a second coat over a freshly dried first coat won't absorb and can blister later. Always follow the directions on the can. When it's time to reapply months down the road, sprinkle a few drops of water on the stand: if they bead up, the finish is still working. If they soak in quickly, it's ready for a fresh coat.
Although our wooden stands can withstand most winter environments and the cold temperatures they bring, frequent freeze-thaw cycles can weaken the wood. It's best to cover the stand or move it under shelter during the winter to protect it from ice, snow, or winter rain.
